Out and about for you between Wittenberge and Cuxhaven
Our colleague Isabel Wehner travelled along the northern Elbe cycle path for you at the end of April/beginning of May. From Wittenberge, she cycled 5 sections downstream to the estuary of the Elbe in Cuxhaven. In her travel report, you can read about the romance of bricks, blossoming apple orchards as far as the eye can see, bleating companions and everything else she experienced...
Our colleague Isabel Wehner cycled the northern Elbe cycle path for you at the end of April/beginning of May.
We come across sheep and lambs again and again on our cycle tour along the northern Elbe cycle path.
We reach the old town centre, which is located on an island. Artfully decorated half-timbered houses characterise the appearance.
Sunday: Wittenberge – Hitzacker
After our smooth journey from Dresden the day before, we get on the saddle this morning and start our cycle tour northwards from Wittenberge. It is only a few metres from the hotel to the Elbe cycle path. We cycle directly along the Elbe, initially on the dyke. Of course, the wind blows strongly at the top of the dyke. But we don't care on this cycle tour, as we are travelling with the new e-bikes from AugustusTours.
We only encounter a few cyclists on the well-maintained section of the route. We make our first longer stop in Lenzen. With just 1,500 inhabitants, Lenzen is one of the smallest towns in Brandenburg. If the Wittenberge-Hitzacker section is too long for you, you can find accommodation here. However, Lenzen is also worth a short detour if you are travelling through to see either the castle or the magnificent half-timbered buildings in the listed old town. The castle is home to the visitor centre, which offers interesting insights into the natural and cultural history of the Elbe valley floodplain with various permanent exhibitions.
Back on the Elbe cycle path, we cycle on to Dömitz, our next stop on this section. After approx. 1.5 km on the road, we reach Dömitz harbour, which invites us to stop for a while: whether in the panorama restaurant or at the beach bar.
The centre of Dömitz is about two kilometres away. Anyone interested in history and architecture should visit the well-preserved lowland fortress from the 16th century. With its pentagonal shape, casemate vaults and bastions, it illustrates the impressive defence architecture of the Renaissance.
Today on Sunday there is a small market. We would like to buy a few things, but this would only mean additional load on our already heavy bikes. So we continue along the right bank to the next bridge shortly after Dömitz, which we cross to take the left bank to Hitzacker. A good decision. After just a few kilometres, we cycle through Damnitz. A small village with beautiful brick houses - very idyllic! After around 84 kilometres, we reach the old town centre, which is located on an island, via the Elbe road. Artfully decorated half-timbered houses characterise the streetscape of the old town. We park our bikes at our accommodation for the night before taking a walk through the old town centre. Very worth seeing. But then hunger catches up with us and we walk back to the hotel to end the evening with a hearty "Brotzeit".
Monday: Hitzacker - Lauenburg
We actually want to set off straight after breakfast. However, the heavy rain doesn't motivate us to get on our bikes, so we don't tackle today's relatively short section until around noon. Until then, we explore other pretty spots in Hitzacker. We get talking to various people who, despite the ups and downs, make the left bank of the Elbe, with its supposedly beautiful views and easily navigable paths, very attractive to us. In our travel documents, we recommend the right bank. Maybe the left bank isn't so bad after all! We'll master the ups and downs with our e-bikes ... we think, and set off after the rain has eased a little. The first rays of sun are already coming out from behind the clouds.
We cycle to the ferry but don't cross over, instead we turn left into the forest. For the next 10 kilometres, we cycle along an uneven forest path, gravel tracks and the promised ups and downs. The promised views do not materialise. Again and again we cycle along the road and beside the road. We barely see the Elbe. It was good to test this section, but we will continue to recommend the cycle path on the right bank of the Elbe between Hitzacker and Bleckede to our guests.
We make our first and only longer stop today in the 800-year-old town of Bleckede. The narrow cobbled streets are lined with well-preserved half-timbered houses with colourful doors. We stop for refreshments at St Jacob's Church before returning to the cycle path past the castle with its tourist information centre and museum.
The scenery changes. The cycle path now runs alongside the dyke. Next to the cycle path there are beautiful farmsteads, beautifully landscaped gardens, large meadows and fields. The sun is shining now. The headwind has become stronger. We utilise the power of our e-bikes and really pick up the pace. We reach Lauenburg after 59.71 kilometres. We quickly find our accommodation right on the banks of the Elbe. Before we explore the town, we enjoy a hearty dinner.
Well-preserved half-timbered houses with colourful doors line the narrow cobbled streets.
We reach Lauenburg after 59.71 kilometres. We quickly find our accommodation, which is located directly by the Elbe.
Geesthacht offers a small town centre with shops, restaurants and ice cream parlours. The derelict island in the Elbe was recultivated in 2003.
The last few kilometres to the outskirts of Hamburg are quickly covered.
Tuesday: Lauenburg - Hamburg
Today the sun is already shining in the morning. We therefore set off straight after breakfast for the next cycle section to Hamburg. As recommended in the travel documents, we opt for the left bank of the Elbe as far as Geesthacht. The pleasant cycle route with the marvellous nature and architecture of the previous day continues. After the first few kilometres, we are able to take off a layer of clothes. In Geesthacht, we cross the bridge and watch as several ships pass through the locks. With a usable length of 250 metres and a width of 25 metres, the Geesthacht lock was built in 1957 to ensure an even draught between the Lower and Upper Elbe.
To get to the centre of Geesthacht, we take the Elbe road a few kilometres back up the Elbe. Geesthacht has a small town centre with shops, restaurants and ice cream parlours. The derelict island in the Elbe was recultivated in 2003 and now offers various activities for those seeking relaxation. If you want to combine nature with culture, you can visit the "GeesthachtMuseum!" and learn all sorts of funny, interesting and absurd things about the town.
The last few kilometres into Hamburg are quickly completed. But it's still a long way to the centre, or rather to Altona, where our hotel is located. From HafenCity onwards, we feel a little lost with our bikes in the middle of the traffic. Have we missed the sign? Where are the cycle path markings on the other side of the junction? We follow the signs for Altona and are probably not riding in a completely safe manner. Fortunately, we reach our hotel near Altona railway station after 73.88 km. Hamburg is alive, especially today on the eve of 1 May.
Wednesday: Hamburg - Wischhafen
As warm as the sun shone yesterday, the clouds are hanging thickly over us today. It's drizzling and cold. We start our cycle tour on May 1 in thick jumpers and rain gear. Our destination today is Wischhafen on the left bank of the Elbe. We therefore take the ferry from Ovelgönne to Finkenwerder on the other side of the river. From there, drizzle and a constantly blowing headwind accompany us northwards.
We stop briefly at the Airbus factory site and get an overview of the site from the viewing platform. The cycle path on the left bank of the Elbe often runs alongside the road behind the dyke. Various sections are roughly paved, very narrow and rather difficult to cycle on. However, the "Altes Land" experience is very impressive. Blossoming apple trees wherever you look, numerous farm shops along the way, a church worth visiting in every small village. Due to the public holiday, there are lots of pedestrians and cyclists out and about despite the grey weather - the rain has stopped in the meantime. We take a break at Obstparadies Schuback shortly after Jork and stock up on apples for the journey. In Mittelkirchen, we take a look inside the church.
The old town centre of the Hanseatic town of Stade is particularly beautiful. Where Hanseatic ships were once unloaded, charming cafés now attract visitors with their specialities. A relaxed stroll through the small shops in the alleyways of the old town is well worthwhile.
We continue northwards "op n diek" (meaning "on the dyke" in North German dialect). The wind has not yet died down, but our strength has. Without the e-bike support, we would probably have already boarded the train. Hopefully the battery will last. Wischhafen is not far away now and we are already looking forward to a well-earned pint. At around 6 p.m. we have made it after 79.07 kilometres and are happy that the accommodation has a restaurant.
Our destination today is Wischhafen on the left bank of the Elbe. We therefore take the ferry from Ovelgönne to Finkenwerder on the other side of the river.
The old town centre of the Hanseatic city of Stade is particularly beautiful. Where Hanseatic ships were once unloaded, charming cafés now tempt visitors with their specialities.
The Kugelbake, the landmark of the town of Cuxhaven, used to serve as an orientation point for seafarers
We follow the signs to the Kugelbake and reach the end of the Elbe cycle path at this point.
Thursday: Wischhafen-Cuxhaven
As soon as we look out of the window, we realise that there is no improvement of the weather in sight. After our energising breakfast, we set off in full rain gear. The host advises us to cycle via Krummendeich and Balje instead of along the Elbe dyke. He promises us less wind thanks to the shelter of the trees and houses as well as the winding path. There may be less wind, but the headwind is still enough to give us a sporting challenge. We accept the challenge and cycle past beautiful houses, small villages, meadows and fields. Shortly before Balje, we try to cycle at least a section of the "original" Elbe cycle path. We only accept the wind speeds for a few metres and return to the alternative parallel Elbe cycle path at the next opportunity.
We take our first break in Balje. Balje itself is a relatively large, elongated village with many neighbourhoods where you can spend your time. Whether in the Natureum, in the medieval village on the Hörne estate or in the schnapps distillery in Neuhaus. An extra night would definitely be worthwhile. We make a short detour via Cadenberge, which is about 5 kilometres from the Elbe cycle path. There are plenty of shops and entertainment for the whole family here. Apart from Neuhaus and Cadenberge, this section of the Elbe Cycle Path only offers very few places to stop for refreshments.
We soon pass Otterndorf, a very nice holiday location, just before Cuxhaven. Unfortunately, the weather is too cold for swimming and we are already wet. Herds of sheep and cows accompany us to the right and left of the cycle path. And then the cycle path leads right through the middle. At first we are in doubt, but three signs show us the way to Cuxhaven through the still closed gate and into the herd of sheep. So open the gate, close the gate, cycle a bit, open the gate, close the gate, cycle a bit, open the gate,... The sheep take it easy, they seem to have got used to bikes.
In Cuxhaven itself, the Elbe cycle path is marked on the road in addition to the usual cycle signs. We now follow it to the Kugelbake and reach the end of the Elbe cycle path after 71.19 kilometres.
We start our return journey tomorrow. Until then, we want to get to know the North Sea health resort with its wide sandy beaches, colourful beach chairs and passing ships and, of course, eat plenty of fish.
