Travel report about the cycle tour on the Moselle cycle path

We travel from east to west across Germany by train early in the morning. Instead of fully packed bikes, this time we set off with just our small suitcases. On this tour, we want to test our partner's rental bikes and treat ourselves to the luxury of luggage transport service. The journey is long, but relatively hassle-free - if - yes, if the French railway doesn't go on strike. As a result, everything runs smoothly as far as Saarbrücken. The train is cancelled for the rest of the journey. For the last 70 kilometres, we decide between a taxi and BlaBlaCar in favour of the latter and reach Metz late in the evening thanks to a very friendly and chatty Frenchwoman.

Before starting our cycle tour eastwards, we want to get to know Metz and have therefore booked an extra night. A varied, yet typically French breakfast is served early in the morning to energise us before we set off on our exploration tour.

Our route takes us along the wide, plane tree-lined Avenue Foch to the main railway station, we take a brief look at the architecture of the Centre Pompidou contemporary art museum, before we continue on to the historic "Porte des Allemands". The gate dates back to the Middle Ages and is still very well preserved.

Back in the centre, the highlight is Saint-Étienne Cathedral. With its 42 metre high nave, it is one of the largest Gothic church buildings in Europe. Our walk continues to the theatre-opera, the oldest still intact in France. Before we return, we walk to La Moselle, as it is known here in France. We want to at least find out the starting point of tomorrow's first section. During dinner, the thick clouds that have been with us all day burst: pouring rain, hail, lightning and thunder... We can only hope for better weather before our start tomorrow.

Monday morning is only slightly rainy. We pack our things so that our suitcases are ready at reception for transport to the next hotel on time at 9am and then have breakfast. Our rental bikes have been delivered in the meantime. One 10-litre pannier per bike contains a repair kit and offers space for rain gear, a change of clothes, small snacks and drinks. Let's go!

There's a lot of industrial infrastructure on the first few kilometres. Particularly noticeable are the many cargo ships being loaded, the countless barrages (there are 28 on the 394 km long Moselle!) and of course the much-disputed Cattenom nuclear power plant. The rain has now started again. But there is no such thing as bad weather for cyclists. Rainproof and packed, we set off again.

We stop for lunch in Thionville, which is pretty much halfway along the route. Monday, lunchtime and rain - the small town seems rather quiet during our stay. Although, the capital of the border triangle has an important historical and architectural heritage and is therefore well suited for a short stopover. The signposting is very good. However, you should not look for the "Moselle", but follow the signs for the "Veloroute de Charles le Téméraire". From Thionville, the Moselle cycle route is signposted as "Le Chemin de la Moselle".

We see the first vineyard just before reaching the German border. We leave France and shortly afterwards reach Perl, the town in the border triangle of Luxembourg, France and Germany. We don't expect to find any shopping facilities in this small village of 1,800 inhabitants. However, there is plenty of choice! The convenient location in the border triangle and the low purchase prices attract neighbours in particular.

Today is the 1st of May. Over breakfast, we strike up a conversation with two couples who are also on an active holiday, but hiking on the Moselsteig Trail. Our destination today, Trier, is their destination in four days' time and instead of following the flat course of the Moselle, they hike up and down through the vineyards.

We start with a cloudy sky at 6°C. This time we return to the Moselle through the vineyards. The route along the Moselle and initially along the luxembourg border is also lined with vineyards. In Remich, the 1st of May is celebrated by a marching band. Shortly after Palzem, the sun has made its way through the clouds and the temperature rises immediately. The route goes through the vineyards for about two kilometres. A marvellous sight. The closer we get to Trier, the higher the number of handcarts pulled by partying young people.

We reached our today's destination at around 2 pm. As our accommodation is a little out of town due to our choice of category B accommodation, we visit Germany's oldest city before continuing our journey. After the old Roman bridge, we head towards the centre and reach the famous Porta Nigra. We go on a trackless train tour to see and learn about the most important sights: The cathedral, the Constantine Basilica and the Karl Marx House. Afterwards, however, it is worth taking a walk to see the beautifully restored houses around the main market square.

Our accommodation is located in the Trier-Ruwer district, right next to the cycle path. If you are not staying in Ruwer but in the center of Trier, you should take the left-hand cycle path from Trier the next day. Many roots and cracks make the cycle path on the right-hand side rather uncomfortable. We learn that the Moselle cycle path will soon run directly behind the hotel on a former railroad line, which would definitely be an improvement for the hotel and its cycling guests. After this eventful day, we don't have to and don't want to go any further than the Italian restaurant attached to the hotel this evening.

After a very filling and delicious breakfast, we set off on the third and longest section of our cycle tour. The first few kilometers to Schweich are close to the motoray, rather unpleasant.

Due to the rain on the first day, the chain suffered a little and squeaked a lot yesterday. The travel documents indicate a bike store in Schweich-Issel near the cycle path. The chain is briefly oiled and runs smoothly again.

Every now and then we make a detour to the villages and communities along the cycle path. Due to the low season, the villages still seem rather quiet, which is very pleasant for those seeking relaxation. The rush of tourists is not expected until the second half of the year, as the popular wine cellars do not open until the grape harvest in August, September and October. The cycle path between Thörnich and Köwerich leads directly through the vineyards.

In Piesport, a rather hidden Roman cellar complex from the 3rd or 4th century is worth a visit. Shortly after Piesport, we finally stop for our first wine tasting at the Lehnert-Veit winery. This is accompanied by a delicious tarte flambée. We continue cheerfully on to Bernkastel-Kues. It's worth planning more time here: for the historic old town with its beautifully restored half-timbered houses, small alleyways and cozy wine bars. We can also recommend a visit to the wine museum on the other side of the Moselle.

It is now not far to our destination for today, Rachtig. The Hochmosel bridge, which is still under construction, dominates the view over the roofs of Rachtig in a somewhat disconcerting way. At a height of 158 meters, the four-lane road bridge will cross the Moselle valley from mid-2019.

Today, on the first 12 kilometres, we cycle through picturesque countryside, small wine villages, past the Ürziger Würzgarten and Kröver Nacktarsch. The road, which mostly runs parallel to the cycle path, seems far away and we enjoy the peace and quiet. Loop after loop, we pass Traben-Trarbach with its decorative bridge gate and the gem Enkirch with its Moselle half-timbered architecture.

We stop for lunch in Pünderich. One of the most famous photo spots in the Moselle region is the Pünderich ferry house, built in 1621. The houses in the 2nd or 3rd row facing the Moselle have also been around for centuries. Next, we take a stroll through the picturesque town centre of Zell. Here in the largest wine-growing community on the Moselle, we hear the legend of the "Zeller Schwarze Katz" wine.

The vineyards are incredibly steep. In Bremm, we cycle past the steepest vineyard in Europe, the Bremmer Calmont, which has an incline of 68 degrees. From a distance, we can see the Metternich Castle ruins, which tower over the picturesque village of Beilstein. We pause for a short tour and another wine tasting in front of a marvellous backdrop and decide to buy a souvenir or two in bottles. The decision to have our luggage transported pays off.

The following short journey to Cochem is marvellous. The Reichsburg castle is glowing in the low sun. Today's stage was by far the most beautiful so far. We recommend covering slightly fewer kilometres per day so that you can enjoy the vineyards and villages even more.

As we only arrived in Cochem late yesterday, we used the morning for a guided tour of the Reichsburg and a visit to the restored old town. With its numerous hotels and catering establishments, Cochem has become a tourist stronghold.

We start our last section at lunchtime. Most of the cycle route runs along a cycle lane alongside the main road. After yesterday's scenic pleasure, today's tour is rather sobering. The detour through the centre of Kobern is a very positive surprise. The old half-timbered houses exude medieval flair. Tables and chairs are placed on the historic market square. A romantic tour of the village through old alleyways and past vineyards entices you to discover the history of 800 - 1600 AD.

We are also impressed by the next village. The cycle path runs through the centre of Winningen. The market square with its pretty buildings is charming. As it's not far to Koblenz, we taste some good wine here too. The weekly programme, the weather and the achievements of the local youth fire brigade are announced over speakers.

After crossing the bridge in Koblenz, the cycle path leads us along the Willy-Brandt-Ufer, a beautiful riverside promenade, to the Deutsches Eck - we have reached our destination after 320 kilometres.